In the days before Sky TV changed the whole nature of British football the cup final was preceded by community singing, particularly Abide With Me. The BBC always showed the match and the match day preamble included a video diary from the towns of the contesting teams, especially when one of them was an outsider. Strangely, an appearance at Wembley had the same effect in Merthyr Tydfil or Mudflats-By-The-Sea as the European Song Contest in Slovenia.
With TOMA in the English cup final and the end of the season fast approaching a mini road trip did have some distractions but, those notwithstanding, the Wee Mannie had suggested a quick scamper down to Malaga via the Channel Tunnel and the length of both France and Spain. Having set off for Morocco when the camper was new to me I was aware of the magnitude of the trip but he was undaunted – and the chance to whizz about in his Porsche outweighed any better judgement I might have had.
Accordingly, on a wet and cold May Thursday afternoon I popped over to collect the Wee Mannie’s car. As we were due to return on the Sunday morning ten days hence and I had an invitation to one of my brother’s poshish birthday do I took some poshish clothes. As the day was so cold and wet I forget to take them out of my rucksack, so they will need a bit of a wash and brush up. I once attended a wedding in Jalunder as the start to a three month trip around northern India, Nepal and Tibet. My suit (made on a previous volunteering trip to Daramsala) was worn once but was my constant companion. Is there a pattern forming? One place I visited on that trip had an army camp where it was possible to be a paying guest in the officers’ mess if one had either a collar and tie or national dress. Nestling in the bottom of my rucksack was the key – and I forgot; another opportunity missed, not that officers’ messes hold much appeal.
It was not only the clothing which went awry, the inclement weather meant that The Big Smoke was full of slow moving traffic which, in turn, meant that we missed our train under the channel. Fortunately the British end of the tunnel allows for late arrival and thus we managed the first stage of our adventure, albeit arriving at our booked hotel in Amiens slightly after we intended.
Eleven hours of almost non-stop driving on Friday got us to Carcassonne, where we had booked an hotel with an amazing view of the old town. Carcassonne is a town with a long and bloody history (connected with religion, by way of a change), which also was the target of a man who, with his wife and long dog, set sail from the UK in a narrow boat and wrote a subsequent book about the journey. My late friend Erica, with whom I shared many a good giggle, a silly sense of humour, a love of cryptic crosswords and several years of summer schools, had a house there; it was a good place to visit. We had decided during the embryonic stage to spend two nights there, so had a good explore. When we learnt that the town had fallen down and been rebuilt only a hundred or so years ago we were a tad disappointed – it seemed more Disney than Machu Pichu. The best side effect was that the Wee Mannie changed his mind about Malaga and we decided to divert to Valencia as the most southerly point; this was still further south than my previous winter wandering, which only got as far as Taragona.
By another, but slightly more amenable, daft dash we arrived, found a good hotel – and an Irish bar which was showing Manchester United playing TOMA; that and a refreshing couple of pints of Guinness, grand. As the son of Irish people, the Wee Mannie does have a mission regarding world travel and pints of Guinness. Having given up on some of the marathon we had more time, and so had a day of sight-seeing in Valencia before heading up to Madrid. Valencia is a beautiful city with a lovely old quarter.
No wonder Dave Snooty wanted to be Prime Minister – Spanish people speak loudly and quickly. The cabinet must be the only place he can get his own way. As with most capital cities, Madrelinos speak more loudly, more quickly and with greater glass-shattering power than their compatriots; it is a fine old city for all that. I feel for Call-Me-Dave if Samantha comes from Madrid. My Latino Spanish was learnt ad hoc some 15 years ago – and has deteriorated. It was mingled with Castilian, similarly learnt three years ago. It made for an unhappy mix (unhappy for the locals, who could not follow what I was saying and unhappy for me, who asked for favours but got shown the door)!
Oh how the mighty are fallen. My return from the Latino learning trip included a flightathon – to counter time zones, I worked out the actual time. From entering Lima airport I finally walked out of Heathrow 26 hours later. During a long wait in Bogata a large group of (I think) Saga holidaymakers arrived for the same onward connection. They had no courier and were also caught by Avianca, the Colombian airline, having cancelled its direct route to Heathrow, thus we had to go via Madrid. Being on an organised trip they wanted a courier – and soon realised that I was an English speaking solo traveller. Thus began the journey through hell. Even when I went to the khazi I had an escort (and guards on the door). At Madrid our onwards flight had been cancelled. Imagine if you can, me speaking barely intelligible Spanish, with frequent interruptions from wrinklies asking what I was being told, trying to ask at information from a quick-fire speaking, heavily accented, short-tempered assistant (perhaps her temper was contagious, I was getting grumpy). Even at Heathrow the Saga group asked which carousel their luggage would be on, despite me needing to look at the same information matrix as them!
One unfortunate aspect throughout the parts of Spain that we visited was the number of people (of all ages but often elderly) begging. The low level of the Euro is propitious but it does make for a sad picture. Even in the north, that wealthy area so coveted by Madrid governments, seems to be suffering.
The Basque people are proudly independent and even with the disgust which ETA attracted with some of their excesses, the flame of independence remains unquenched. As Athletic Bilbao have reached the final of the Copa Del Rey the town resembled said Merthyr Tydfil before a (mythical) Wembley appearance; even the poshest of posh shops and hotels are sporting the colours. Their opponents, as in their last appearance, six years ago, will be Barcelona (who won 4 – 1 then); the latter represented all that was rebellious during the Spanish Civil War – Catalunya suffered as did the Basques. A previous visit to Geurnika had a sobering effect on me. However, Barca blotted their collective copybooks when visiting Israel recently and, in effect, validating the apartheid/separation wall; on balance, I shall cheer Atletico. It is also helped by the dual language effect – in Basque Bilbao is Bilbo and the wee hobbit was (is) a favourite of mine.
From Bilbao to Saumur, in the Loire valley, is a manageable day, allowing us a pleasant evening in the old town – set on an island between both halves of the larger town. Saumur was a comfortable day’s drive from the coast with children in car and towing a trailer tent, thus it is a place which I have visited previously but explored a new part.
Saumur to Sangatte is also a comfortable day’s drive, thus we arrived with plenty of time to find accommodation for the night; only to be frustrated. It was the public holiday of Pentecost, still celebrated in France, and thus the whole country was on the move. From Le Touquet, via Boulogne, to the tunnel there was no room at any of the inns (to keep to a Christian theme), so we changed our booking and came back to the UK one night early.
There is a whole week of exciting things to do before next Saturday but that does look to be a sport on TV fest; the rugby Premiership play-off final, the F.A. Cup final (oh that TOMA do not end up with FA) and the Copa Del Rey (c’mon Atleeeeeeetico – as the locals would have it). I may need correction for square eyes by Sunday. Have the programme compilers conspired against me?