Stage three of Hadrian’s Wall Footpath commences by a bridge over the River Eden in Carlisle and continues for some 9.5 miles to a village called Newtown. One of the more annoying aspects of the internet is the order of precedence given to things – there are more than one Newtowns and the one in Cumbria is not the main attraction. Unless one is specific Newtown somewhere in Wales becomes the hub of the universe.
Dominic and Sarah had an appointment in Carlisle first thing and so I took the camper to the Newtown (Cumbria) end, left it there and was collected by a flounder and taken to our RVP. Post their arrival and coffee and sticky buns Sarah dropped us at the start and we had a most pleasant dander. Despite an urban start the route follows the river and goes through a memorial park to the Great War, thus all the way pursues a quite rural setting
The park being a tribute to the fallen it was no surprise for there to be a memorial. Of the few memorable sights on this section was this folly:
despite its appearance it is actually octagonal; I don’t think I could manage that precision without really trying (which I didn’t). It is so far inland I don’t think the missing light will constitute a hazard to shipping.
Although much of the wall was eventually built of stone the western end was originally little more than ditch with earthworks made of the spoils – and precious litle of that remains:
Where Pictish hordes once defied the might of Imperial Rome, and then reivers plied their nefarious deeds now sheep and cattle coexist with the innumerable walkers, desperate to discern more than gentle undulations that were formerly defensive fortifications. After three stages of little more than earthworks it was good to see proper fortifications.
Of all the remains along the whole route, this is the tallest
and this quite probably in contention for the smallest.
It is possible to have too much of a good thing. I remember, some years ago on the Greek island of Cos, being amazed at all the old (obviously) bits of Doric-looking columns jut lying around in open areas. It is a bit like that along Hadrian’s Wall.
Section four (Newtown to Birdoswald Roman Fort) is the first to really get amongst the ruins and remains and does so with a vengeance. There are footings for towers and the mini-forts which punctuated the wall at frequent intervals. Most were apparently gateways to allow the soldiers through to attack marauding heathens.
In a couple of places there were notices warning of cows with their offspring and how mothers will often protect their young, On the first occasion, whilst cows and calves gave me a disdainful look I was slightly alarmed to notice a bull amongst them, slowly lumbering to his hooves. My retreat was orderly but prompt.
Of greater cause for concern was another field with similar warning where the cows were separated from the heffers by a single strand of barbed wire – and the heffers were in the walkers corridor. Two quite large cows took some exception and were getting mightily agitated; my retreat was less orderly and possibly slightly more prompt. Approaching me were two women and a man who all transpired to be North American who, when appraised of the situation, accepted my offer of help to scramble to the safer side of the wall. They even laughed when I suggested how ironic it would be for them to get trampled by cows whilst in the UK. (Rawhide was shown on BBC TV during my formative years).
The Haymarket in London is at the end of Piccadilly and along the road there remains a construction that looks like a seat for stiltwalkers; it is, in fact, a resting place for porters carrying hay on their backs to the market. Being aware of that artefact I was left wondering about this object:
too high for a seat, too low for a porter’s rest. Perhaps Roman Legionnaires were built to different proportions.
As Sarah had offered to help with the logistics for the day we drove in convoy to Birdoswald to park up the camper. A notice in the carpark said that it shut with the buildings – and time was pressing, so I checked but could find no locking-up facility. We then drove back to Newtown for me to continue from where I had finished on Tuesday. On the last two outings for my walking boots I have developed blisters on my right heel – an affliction from which I have been free with these boots. In the morning I discovered a likely reason – inside that boot the lining has worn away at just the right (wrong!) height. As luck would have it, as I went to look for a chemist’s I noticed a vets’ supplier and tried there – and hey presto! A bandage for big animals, which appeared to be slightly tacky but when applied inside the boot lacked any stick. No matter, it worked a treat.
Despite the new, improved footwear I dandered and I dawdled, took a few photos, blethered with a few people and enjoyed the warm autumnal sun… and returned to the carpark some forty-five minutes after last orders. Although I had been offered another night at Dominic and Sarah’s I had visions of sleeping in the camper (metaphorically fags and crisps and beer were available as K rations, fortunately). Sneaky English Heritage, it was an idle threat; as I approached I saw another car pulling out of the carpark. I had been right, there was no way of securing it.
The forecast is for a return of the humidity (precipitation) on Thurday but the worst not until mid afternoon. Hence we have hatched a cunning idea – another convoy straight after Sarah returns from the school run. With any luck I will be able to dump the van at the finish, get to the start and complete the walk before the weather arrives… Aye, right.. As my thoughts are to leave the van in the same place whilst walking another section on Friday and then returning for it I fear a damp van.
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